Thirupathi Spices (R.A. Moodley Mr Curry Powder Asian Delight)

I’m Nick Hamman, and if you’re looking to eat unforgettable Indian food while unraveling the layered soul of Durban’s inner city, you need to book a walking tour with Stuart Talbot ,a counterculture urban archaeologist who’s dedicated his life to exploring, understanding, and exposing this chaotic, beautiful world within a world.

It kicks off in the meat market , raw, alive, unapologetically real. You’re immediately struck by the intoxicating blend of Zulu and Indian heritage. Here, skop and trotters sit beside glistening sardines from the KZN coast. The streets are painted with the colours of fresh veg, and inside the legendary Victoria Street Market, spice sellers hold centuries of flavour knowledge in their hands.

That’s where you meet Sanusha Moodley of Thirupathi Spices,a third-generation spice merchant whose “mother-in-law exterminator” blend famously scorched Gordon Ramsay’s palate on camera. She laughs about it now, but there’s pride in her fire, the kind that’s born from heritage, hustle, and heat.

There’s a rhythm to this place, a pulse. Past and present blur as third-generation shopkeepers sell you smokes with one hand and show you faded struggle-era photos with the other. These aren’t just shop owners — they’re storytellers, survivors, silent revolutionaries.

Sugar beans are bought by the bag. Sugar cane is crushed into R10 cups of golden nectar. And if you know where to look , or if you’re lucky enough to follow Stuart, you’ll find New Little Gujarat, a hole-in-the-wall gem serving vegetarian curries and sweet treats so good they’ll silence a table. All in for under R100.

Beyond the tour, Stuart’s heart beats even deeper, his work at the Denis Hurley Centre helps feed, heal, and uplift the most vulnerable in the city. That’s the kind of man he is.

Book a tour with stuart on whatsapp: +27 83 384 4410

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